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“Meet one of the best chefs in the world, and the person who least wants me to call him that.” The praise is from the Basque chef Andoni Luis Aduriz, with whom I am drinking espresso in Mexico City on a chilly morning last winter. We’re in the meeting room of Pujol, the city’s most lauded restaurant, and Pujol’s handsome owner and chef, Enrique Olvera, has just entered.